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BMW R65 1979 Part 3 (Rebuild part 2)

Jan 20

Written by:
Wednesday, January 20, 2010 6:55:54 PM  RssIcon

Time seems to fly past and the older I get the quicker it goes, also Christmas and all that goes with it got in the way, although I enjoyed the rest! I have got further with the rebuild, so here goes.

From the previous blog, the engine was ready to be located into the rolling chassis, REMEMBER the clutch push rod MUST be in.

  If you don’t fit it prior to locating the engine / gearbox assembly into the frame you will not get it in due to lack of  space, with the frame getting in the way!  
Once the engine is in, I will again remind you that the assembly is heavy and requires some manoeuvring, so call on a friend!
  engine-in-frame1   engine-in-frame-2  

Its the barest of assemblies in order to keep the weight down, there is a compromise between weight and items that are awkward to get at once it’s in the frame


I really must build myself a bike lifter, the only problem with them is space when not in use, but they do save the old back!


As I keep saying, use the camera and note pad when stripping, I missed the fact that the 8 barrel and head studs are made up of 2 long and 6 slightly shorter, which wasted a good hour searching my manuals, notes and pictures.




The 2 longer studs go into the right hand top and bottom threads

Now to put the con rods in, I should not have to remind you that it is critical to scrupulously clean, oil and correctly fit the con rods and big end shells. Fitting the con rod requires installing the bottom cap onto the crank, but because you have liberally oiled it, it keeps falling of!

I use a stud, threaded into the bottom cap holding it in position I feed the con rod over the stud, insert the other bolt finger tight (you must use new ones!) remove the stud and inset the second bolt finger tight. Then don’t forget to torque the bolts as specified in your work shop manual (oh you haven't got one, well I can sell you one electronically, see on this site, for sale- parts books)

In order to get the gudgeon pin through the piston / con rod, its essential that the piston is heated, I use a paint stripper heat air gun, but a tin of boiling water works (MAKE SURE YOU DRY THE PISTON!). Both the con rod and piston fitting is best done with no rag covering the crank barrel hole, so be VERY careful not to get dirt in the crank case. Once the piston is on fit the second gudgron retaining circlip.
  piston-on   piston-on-1  

Once the piston/s are in take care not to let it bump against the crank


Putting the circlip in, use a piece of rage to close of the hole, you don’t want the clip flying in there!


Next its the barrel, the boxer engine has external push rod tubes which have rubber seals between them and the crank case, I do not remove them if possible whilst honing the bore or cleaning it.

As you can see I liberally coat the rubber seal with gasket sealer, I use a latex based sealer so it does not attack the rubber, it’s also grey so any residue you cannot remove does not show against the aluminium



  heads-exhaust-fitted   heads-exhaust-fitted-1  

The next stage is fit the head as the sealing of the barrel and rubber push rod seals is all in one, again torque to the manual’s spec., I then fitted the exhausts, while they are of, its a great opportunity to give them a good clean and polish.



I decided I would come back to the engine as I needed to fit a new battery, I like to rotate the engine a few times before I set the tappets, as I did not have the battery I did some more frame fitting

  handlebar-dashboard-ets-fitted   rearlight-carrier-no.plate-fitted  

I had already installed the handle bars as this makes it easier to manoeuvre the bike, I decided to fit the cables and “dash board”.


The rear lights and indicators, number plate, pannier carrier and exhausts






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