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Triumph T100 1967 500cc

Oct 30

Written by:
Sunday, October 30, 2011 4:18:38 PM  RssIcon

I was contacted by the owner, Pieter, who heard about me through a business contact his brother Casper uses, the company I use for all my chroming & electro plating.

Apparently they had got somebody else to strip, chrome and rebuild the front wheel to the T100, unfortunately for them the other “rebuilder” had had the rim chromed but the chrome company had polished away the nipple holes so much as to open them up, thus making them potentially very dangerous, nipples could pull through! also the rim had a very bad buckle, which would not come out.

So I had to throw it away.

  WheelFinished01 FrontHubSkimed WheelFinished02  

We  imported a new chromed rim and stainless steel spokes with brass nickel plated nipples, and of course skimmed and coated the brake hub, I had no pictures to guide the spoke lacing, fortunately it’s not to difficult to work out, as I have done several others.


In discussions with Pieter & Casper it turned out that the bike had been standing for quite a while and they had started it and it smoked quite a bit, after they put valve ease in, I think that's the wrong thing to do, but hey some you win some you loose!

Anyway,we agreed that I would fit the new wheel, after fitting a new tyre and then pick the bike up and see what needs doing to get it safely on the road.

TriumphArrives1   TriumphArrivesLHSide   TriumphArrivesLHSide1

For its age, 44 years, it looks good, but we will see what's under those good looks as we get into it!

BatteryHeatsinketc   BoterBransonIgnition   RearHarnessConectedWithBlocks
RearHarnessConectedWithBlocks1    StopLightWires    TriumphViewofGeneratorWiresConection

As usual I take lots of pictures of the wiring, some of the joints had been made with block connectors, not a good idea, vibration, moisture and deterioration of the current will occur, so they will have to be replaced with the bullet type connectors.

ClutchGenerator   GearBoxAssyOut    TriumphViewofBoreOff
 TriumphReleasingtheBore    TriumphViewofRHBore    EngineReadyToComeOut
 RearWheelOut    TriumphViewofGeneratorWiresConection1   EngineOnTheNench

As the strip down goes, I observe and record as much as possible, the view from the back with the rear wheel and mudguard out has two reasons, the rear engine mountings are easier to get at and cleaning the wheel and especially the mudguard is much easier and more complete, also its easier to clean the inside surfaces, of things like the oil tank. Note the blue, silicon, on the clutch adjusters, see the reason later.

CrankCaseBeforeClean1    CrankMainBearingSealInWrong1   CrankSludgeTrapScrewOut
CrankCaseBeforeClean   CrankMainBearingSealInWrong    CrankCaseBeforeClean1
 ClutchCoverSiliconCrack       ClutchCoverCrack

Its may not be easy to see with these pictures but there are two problems that make the whole exercise worth while.

The blue on the inside of the clutch cover, see above comment about the clutch adjusters,in this case its not from putting the cover on without taking care not to get the gasket material on other things, oh yes somebody had used BLUE silicon, yak! its there to cover a crack in the cover, caused sometime by a whack on the cover, I have highlighted it with white Tip-ex, a handy marking tool.

The other one is that the crank oil seal was put in the wrong way, oil seals of this type are directional, oil pressure on the one side increases the pressure the rubber makes on the shaft thus improving the seal, in this case it would do the opposite!

Mostly though the engine and gearbox are in good condition, its obvious that somebody had stripped and rebuilt the crank and replaced bearings throughout.

But as I said its best to check!


RHStanchionTopNutJambed   BothStanchionsOut   StanchionsTapper

When I picked up the bike from Pieter I pointed out that there was something wrong with the gap between the top steering yoke and the stanchion retaining nut, so a strip down was needed.

The principle is, the stanchions have a tapper that fits into the equivalent tapper of the top yoke, and that and the pinch bolt of the bottom yoke stops the stanchion from turning and or moving, well as I was to find out, somewhere along its history, two different stanchion tubes with different tappers were fitted, what a battle to remove the nuts, also somebody had fitted them using thread tape, oh not a good sign.

The tapper difference was overcome by fitting a bush to the long tapper, also it turns out that the stanchions female threads are 28TPI but the nuts were 26TPI, and that's why the nut had a space, the threads had seized, so new nuts had to be made.

The above would have, at the least, given bad handling and at worse a serious accident!



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